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Spain's Menú del Día: Average Price Hits €14.70 as Servings Decline

A new book by food journalist Lakshmi Aguirre details the origins of the daily set lunch and the economic pressures currently testing its survival.

By Noor Morgan ·

Illustration for: Spain's Menú del Día: Average Price Hits €14.70 as Servings Decline
Illustration generated for this article, not a news photograph.

On a typical weekday in Spain, chalkboards outside local eateries display the day's fixed-price lunch. This daily set menu, known as the menú del día, has been a staple of Spanish life for over fifty years. While approximately four million of these meals are still served each working day, the tradition is losing ground.

Food journalist Lakshmi Aguirre recently published a book titled Menú del Día: Everyday Scenes of a First Course, a Second Course and Pudding. The work traces the history of the meal and argues that while the practice is in trouble, it has not yet disappeared.

The origins of the menú date to the mid-1960s, when it was created to attract tourists during the rule of dictator Francisco Franco. Manuel Fraga, the information and tourism minister at the time, devised the menu to show visitors that food in the country was plentiful and affordable. Regulations required establishments to serve a soup starter, a main course of egg, fish, or meat chosen from at least three options, and a dessert. The accompanying quarter-litre of wine had to be a pure Spanish red or white with at least 12% alcohol.

By the early 1970s, the offer was renamed to appear less like a tourist trap and to encourage local residents to use it. Today, many Spaniards are unaware of this origin. Aguirre noted that when she mentioned Fraga's role during her research, many people reacted with shock. "It says a lot about us Spaniards; we forget very quickly," she said.

The current average price for the set lunch is €14.70. Rising energy and food costs have made it difficult for small, family-run restaurants to maintain a rotating daily menu. Some venues have simplified their offerings to a single dish of the day, while others have added Latin American staples to reflect changing demographics. In 2009, chef Ferran Adrià declared the tradition dead, citing economic downturns and the rise of bistro-style restaurants.

Aguirre identifies the menú as a meeting point for families with limited means and people who live alone. She stated that what is being lost is not just a meal, but a social space. The true privilege, she added, lies "not just in being able to pay for a meal, but also in having the time to enjoy it".

Her ideal version of the menu includes a simple vegetable stew, followed by hake in green sauce or baby squid in ink, and a dessert of leche frita or rice pudding. When evaluating a restaurant, she looks for simple dishes, a changing menu, and fresh chips. She also values a chalkboard free of trendy ingredients like avocado or truffle, and bonus points are given if an owner's child is doing homework in the back.

Source: The Guardian

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